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Processus littoraux et estuariens

Par ECOLA Dernière modification 10/01/2017 13:20

 Processus littoraux et estuariens


Les travaux de l'équipe sur le littoral concernent d'une part la dynamique des littoraux sableux, avec l'étude de l'hydromorphodynamique des littoraux vulnérables aux aléas climatiques et l'étude des processus couplés vagues-circulation, et d'autre part la dynamique estuarienne avec l'étude des processus hydrosédimentaires et de la marée. Des études plus ponctuelles ont trait à la dynamique sédimentaire dans les lagons et en milieux semi-arides.

Dynamique du littoral sableux:

- Wave-current interactions in 3D coastal ocean circulation models: the COMODO-WAVES project (2014+, funded by INSU/CNRS through the LEFE/MANU program)

- littoraux du Golfe de Guinée (2013-2014, projet financé par l'INSU/CNRS via le programme LEFE/ECCO)

- coastal variability: the COASTVAR project (2015-2017, project funded by ANR)

- plage des Landes (thèse de D.Angnuureng, coll. EPOC-Univ. Bordeaux 1, Univ. du Ghana)

- variabilité littorale et risques associés au Chili

- spatiotemporal variability of sulfur plumes in the Namibian upwelling system: the TOXIC RISK project (2016-2018, project funded by EU)


Processus hydrosédimentaires

- Fonctionnement hydrosédimentaire d'un lagon corallien

- Dynamique sédimentaire dans l'estuaire du Fleuve Rouge (Vietnam)

- Dynamique sédimentaire dans les milieux semi-arides, impact du changement climatique et des activités anthropiques 

Modélisation de la dynamique estuarienne

An estuary is, by definition, the downstream portion of coastal river under tidal dynamics influence. Tides propagate upward in the river up to hundreds or several hundreds of kilometers.For instance, the Amazone estuary, one of the widest in the world, has an extent of about 800 km away from its coastal mouth. Estuaries are one of the most complex dynamical interaction system between the ocean and continental waters.

The estuarine dynamics is highly non-linear and heterogeneous in terms of bottom friction, geometry and regimes (neap/spring tides, low-water-flood episodes). Its modelling is quite demanding, because of the spatial resolution (from a few kilometers down to tenth of meters), the periodic or seasonal wetting and drying, the need of precise digital terrain models (DTM) and accurate boundary conditions.

The modelling activities for the tidal estuarine dynamics have been conducted in several cases:

  • Amazone river,  AMANDES ANR project (C. Jeandel coordinator), Y. Le Bars (PhD)
  • Seine estuary, SWOT/TOSCA project (B. Laignel coordinator), L. Chevalier (PhD)
  • Douala estuary, R. Onguene (PhD)


The unstructured grid of the T-UGOm numerical model allows for treating the whole estuary without nesting cascade, at a resolution compatible with river geometry constaints. Specific pre-processing tools/methodologies are needed to provide the needed model inputs, such as DTMs and boundary conditions. One major difficulty of estuarine environement is the variety of geographical systems (especially on the vertical) that need to be cross-referenced to handle geophysical data.


Références de l'équipe

Journal papers 

- Vu D.V., Ouillon S.,Tran D.T., La V.C., 2014. Impact of the Hoa Binh dam (Vietnam) on water and sediment budgets in the Red River basin and delta, Hydrol. Earth System Science, accepted (Sept. 2014)

- Almar, R., Michallet, H., Cienfuegos, R., Bonneton, P., Ruessink B.G. and Tissier, M., 2014. On the use of the Radon Transform in studying nearshore wave dynamics, Coastal Engineering, 92, 24-30, DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.06.008

- Senechal, N., Laibi, R., Almar, R., Castelle, B., Degbe, G., Du Penhoat, Y., Chuchla, R., Honkonnou, N., 2014. Beach cusp dynamics on a reflective beach, Journal of Coastal Research, SI 70, 669-674, ISSN 0749-0208 pdf

- Lefebvre, J-P, Almar, R., Viet, N.T., Uu, D.V., Thuan, D.H., Binh, L.T, Ibaceta, R., Duc, N.V., 2014. Contribution of swash processes generated by low energy wind waves in the recovery of a beach impacted by extreme events: Nha Trang, Vietnam. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 70, 663-668, ISSN 0749-0208 pdf

- Laibi, R., Anthony, E., Almar, R., Castelle, B., Senechal, N., 2014. Morphodynamic characterisation of the human-impacted Bight of Benin sand barrier coast, West Africa, Journal of Coastal Research, SI 70, 079-083, ISSN 0749-0208 pdf

- Almar, R., Du Penhoat, Y., Honkonnou, N., Castelle, B., Laibi, R., Anthony, E., Senechal N., Degbe, G., Chuchla, R., Sohou, Z., Dorel, M., 2014. The Grand Popo experiment, Benin, Journal of Coastal Research, SI 70, 651-656, ISSN 0749-0208, pdf

- Castelle, B., du Penhoat, Y., Almar, R., Anthony, E., Lefebvre, JP., Laibi, R., Chuchla, R. Dorel, M., Senechal, N., 2014. Flash rip dynamics on a high-energy low-tide-terraced beach (Grand Popo, Benin, West Africa), Journal of Coastal Research, SI 70, 633-638, ISSN 0749-0208 pdf

- Loisel H., Mangin A., Vantrepotte V., Dessailly D., Dinh Ngoc Dat, Garnesson P., Ouillon S., Lefebvre J.P., Mériaux X., Phan Minh Thu, 2014. Analysis of the suspended particulate matter concentration variability of the coastal waters under the Mekong’s influence: a remote sensing approach, Remote Sensing of Environment, 150, 218-230. DOI: 10.1016/j.rse.2014.05.006 pdf

- Megnounif A., Terfous A., Ouillon S., 2013. A graphical method to study suspended sediment dynamics during flood events in the Wadi Sebdou, NW Algeria (1973-2004), Journal of Hydrology, 497, 24-36, pdf

- Lefebvre J.P., Ouillon S., Vu Duy Vinh, Arfi R., Panche J.Y., Mari X., Chu Van Thuoc, Torreton J.P., 2012. Seasonal variability of cohesive sediment aggregation in the Bach Dang-Cam Estuary, Haiphong (Vietnam), Geo-Marine Letters, 32 (2), 103-121, DOI 10.1007/s00367-011-0273-8 pdf

- Mari X., Torréton J.P., Chu Van Thuoc, Lefebvre J.P., Ouillon S., 2012. Seasonal aggregation dynamics along a salinity gradient in the Bach Dang estuary, North Vietnam, Estuarine Coastal and Shelf Science, 96 (1), 151-158, doi:10.1016/j.ecss.2011.10.028 pdf

- Navarro P., Amouroux D., Duong Thanh Nghi, Rochelle-Newall E., Ouillon S., Arfi R., Chu Van Thuoc, Mari X., Torréton J.P., 2012. Butyltin and mercury compounds fate and tidal transport in waters of the tropical Bach Dang estuary (Haiphong, Vietnam), Marine Pollution Bulletin, 64, 1789-1798, pdf

- Rochelle-Newall E., Chu Van Thuoc, Pringault O., Amouroux D., Arfi R., Bettarel Y., Bouvier T., Bouvier C., Got P., Nguyen Thi Minh Huyen, Mari X., Navarro P., Duong Thanh Nghi, Cao Thi Tu Trang, Pham The Tu, Ouillon S., Torréton J.P., 2011. Phytoplankton diversity and productivity in a highly turbid, tropical coastal system (Bach Dang Estuary, Vietnam). Marine Pollution Bulletin, 62, 2317-2329, doi:10.1016/j.marpolbul.2011.08.044 pdf

- Onguene R., Pemha E., Lyard F., Duhaut T., Nkoue G., du Penhoat Y., Mbiake R., Marsaleix P., Njeugna E. and Jombe S., 2014: Overview of tide characteristics in Cameroon coastal areas using recent observations, Open Journal of Marine Science, in press.


- Marchesiello P., R. Benshila, R. Almar, Y. Uchiyama, J. McWilliams and A. Shchepetkin, 2014. On tridimensional rip current modeling. 19th IAHR-APD 2014 Congress. 21-24 September 2014, Water Resources University, Hanoi, Vietnam.

- Nguyen, T.V, Nguyen V.D., Vo C.H., Tanaka H., Dinh V.U, Tran T.T., Almar R., Lefebvre J-P. 2014. Investigation of Erosion Mechanics of Nha Trang Coast, Vietnam, 19th IAHR-APD 2014 Congress. 21-24 September 2014, Water Resources University, Hanoi, Vietnam.

- Nguyen, T.V, Nguyen V.D., Le T.B., Duong H.T., Tran T.T., Nguyen V.T, Dinh V.U, Almar R., Lefebvre J-P. and Tanaka, H. 2014. Seasonal Evolution of Shoreline Changes in Nha Trang Beach, Vietnam. 19th IAHR-APD 2014 Congress. 21-24 September 2014, Water Resources University, Hanoi, Vietnam

- Almar, R., Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Lefebvre, JP, Dinh, V.U, Nguyen, T.V, Le, T.B, Nguyen, V.D. 2014. Swash hydro-morphodynamics at the low-tide terrace beach during post-typhoon recovery period, Nha Trang bay, Vietnam. 19th IAHR-APD 2014 Congress. 21-24 September 2014, Water Resources University, Hanoi, Vietnam

- Lefebvre, J-P., Almar, R., Viêt, N.T., Uu, D.V., Thuan, D.H., Binh, L.T., Ibaceta, R., 2013. Hydrosedimentary functioning of Nha Trang beach: new tools for assessing processes in the swash zone, WORKSHOP VAST/IRD Hai Phong 28-29 novembre 2013

- Degbe, C. G.E., Oyede, L.M,Almar, R. 2012. Analyse de la dynamique du trait de côte du littoral béninois. 4ème Conférence Internationale AMMA, 2-6 juillet 2012, Toulouse, France

- Ibaceta, R., Almar, R., Lefebvre, JP., Catalán, P., Cienfuegos, R., Blenkinsopp, C., Villagran, M., 2014. Estudio de la dinamica de swash altamente energetico en una playa disipativa (Mataquito, Chile) y reflectiva (Grand Popo, Benin), XXV Congreso Latinoamericano de Hidraulica, Santiago, Chile, Agosto 2014

- R. Ibaceta, R. Almar, J.P. Lefebvre, T.M. Senoo, W.S. Layrea, 2014. High frequency monitoring of swash hydromorphodynamics on a reflective beach (Grand Popo, Benin). International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Corea, June 2014

- R. Almar, P. Catalán, R. Ibaceta, C. Blenkinsopp, R. Cienfuegos, M. Villagrán, J.C. Aguilera, B. Castelle. 2014. Comparison of swash zone measurements during energetic wave conditions at a dissipative beach. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Corea, June 2014

- R. Ibaceta, R. Almar, J-P. Lefebvre, T. Mensah-Senoo, W.S. Laryea, B. Castelle, N. Senechal, Y. du Penhoat, R. Laibi, N. Hounkonnou. 2014. A new high frequency remote sensing based method: application to the swash zone of a very high reflective beach under high energetic conditions (Grand Popo, Benin), Actes des XIIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil, Dunkerque 2014, Paralia Editions. (pdf)

- Larnier, S., Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., and Lejay, A., 2013, Détection de courants marins côtiers à partir de séquences vidéo, Société de Mathématiques Appliquées et Industrielles (SMAI), hal-00868401 (pdf)

- Binh, L.T., Duc, N.V., Viet, N.T, Thuan, D.H., Thin, N.V., Tung, T.T, Uu, D.V, Almar, R., Lefebvre, JP; 2013. Some preliminary results on studying the shoreline evolution of Nha Trang Bay using video-camera technique. Ocean Turbulence and its Applications 2013 Workshop (OTA-2013), Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam




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